While prong settings are the most common way to secure a gemstone in a ring, some jewelry designers opt for a smooth, prong-free look. Setting a stone securely without visible metal accents requires precision and specialized techniques. But the results can be strikingly modern and seamless.
If you’re short on time, here’s a quick answer to your question: Use bezel, tube, or tension settings which surround the gem with metal for a prongless ring design. An experienced jeweler can add stability modifications too.
Understand Setting Options
When it comes to setting a stone in a ring without prongs, there are several options to consider. Understanding these different setting options will help you choose the right one for your needs.
Bezel
The bezel setting is one of the most popular options for setting a stone without prongs. In this setting, a metal rim surrounds the stone, holding it securely in place. This type of setting provides excellent protection for the stone and is particularly well-suited for more fragile gemstones.
The bezel setting also offers a sleek and modern look to the ring.
Tension
The tension setting is another option to consider when setting a stone without prongs. In this setting, the stone is held in place by the tension of the metal band. This creates the illusion that the stone is floating in the air.
The tension setting provides a unique and contemporary look to the ring, but it may not be suitable for all types of gemstones. It is important to choose a tension setting that is specifically designed for the stone you are using.
Tube
The tube setting is a versatile option for setting a stone without prongs. In this setting, a metal tube is used to hold the stone in place. The tube can be adjusted to fit the size of the stone, ensuring a secure fit.
The tube setting allows for more light to enter the stone, enhancing its brilliance. This setting is commonly used for diamonds and other precious gemstones.
Flush
The flush setting, also known as the gypsy setting, involves embedding the stone into the metal band of the ring. The stone is set flush with the surface of the ring, creating a smooth and streamlined look.
This setting is particularly popular for men’s rings and offers a durable and low-profile option for setting stones without prongs.
Gypsy
The gypsy setting is similar to the flush setting, but it differs in how the stone is set. In the gypsy setting, the stone is set into a drilled hole in the metal band and then secured with metal around the edges. This creates a more secure setting compared to the flush setting.
The gypsy setting is often used for larger stones and provides a unique and eye-catching look to the ring.
Now that you understand the various setting options for stones without prongs, you can confidently choose the one that best suits your style and stone. Remember to consider the durability, protection, and aesthetic appeal of each setting option before making your final decision.
Select a Durable Gem
When setting a stone in a ring without prongs, it is crucial to choose a gem that is durable and can withstand everyday wear and tear. Here are some popular options:
Diamond
Diamonds are known for their exceptional hardness and durability, making them an excellent choice for setting in a ring without prongs. They are the hardest gemstone on the Mohs scale, scoring a perfect 10.
This means that diamonds are resistant to scratches and can withstand daily wear without losing their brilliance. When selecting a diamond, it is important to consider the cut, clarity, color, and carat weight for the desired result.
Sapphire
Sapphires are another popular choice for setting in a ring without prongs. They are the second hardest gemstone on the Mohs scale, with a hardness of 9. This makes them highly durable and suitable for everyday wear. Sapphires are available in a range of colors, with blue being the most well-known.
However, they also come in pink, yellow, green, and other hues. Their vibrant colors and durability make sapphires a great option for a prongless setting.
Ruby
Rubies are highly valued gemstones known for their rich red color and durability. They have a hardness of 9 on the Mohs scale, making them an excellent choice for a ring setting without prongs. Rubies symbolize passion and love and have been treasured throughout history.
Their vibrant color and durability make them a popular choice for those looking for an alternative to diamonds.
Emerald
Emeralds are stunning gemstones with a vibrant green color. They have a hardness of 7.5-8 on the Mohs scale, which is softer compared to diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. However, emeralds can still be set in a prongless ring with proper care.
Due to their slightly lower hardness, it is important to protect emeralds from hard knocks and avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals. With proper maintenance, emerald rings without prongs can be a unique and beautiful choice.
When selecting a durable gemstone for a ring without prongs, it is essential to consider personal preferences, budget, and the intended use of the ring. Consulting with a reputable jeweler can provide valuable guidance and help you make an informed decision.
Modify the Band Design
When setting a stone in a ring without prongs, one of the first steps you can take is to modify the band design. By making some adjustments to the band, you can provide additional stability and security for the stone.
Add side stones for stability
One option is to add side stones to the ring. These stones can be set in a way that they flank the main stone, providing support and stability. Not only does this enhance the overall design of the ring, but it also ensures that the main stone stays securely in place.
Thicken shank
Another method to improve the setting of a stone without prongs is to thicken the shank of the ring. By increasing the width and thickness of the band, you create a more substantial base for the stone. This helps prevent the stone from shifting or coming loose over time.
Close back of setting
Closing the back of the setting is another way to secure a stone in a ring without prongs. By enclosing the back of the setting, you create a protective barrier that prevents the stone from slipping out.
This technique is commonly used in bezel settings, where a metal rim surrounds the stone, holding it securely in place.
It’s important to note that modifying the band design should be done by a professional jeweler with experience in stone setting. They will have the expertise and tools necessary to make these modifications effectively and ensure the longevity of the ring.
Use a Secure Metal
When setting a stone in a ring without prongs, it is important to choose a secure metal that can hold the stone in place. Two popular options for this are platinum and 14K or 18K gold.
Platinum
Platinum is known for its durability and strength, making it an excellent choice for setting stones without prongs. It is a naturally white metal, which can enhance the brilliance of the stone. Platinum is also hypoallergenic, making it a great option for those with sensitive skin.
Additionally, platinum is resistant to tarnish and corrosion, ensuring that your stone will stay securely in place for years to come.
14K or 18K Gold
Another option for setting a stone without prongs is using 14K or 18K gold. Gold is a classic choice for jewelry and comes in different colors, such as yellow, white, and rose gold. It is important to note that gold is a softer metal compared to platinum, so it may require more frequent maintenance to keep the stone secure.
However, with proper care, gold can provide a beautiful and secure setting for your stone.
Before making a decision, it is recommended to consult with a jeweler who can provide guidance based on the specific stone and design of your ring. They can help you choose the best metal option that suits your style, budget, and stone requirements.
Check Work Regularly
When setting a stone in a ring without prongs, it is crucial to check the work regularly to ensure the stone remains secure. This step is essential because stones can become loose over time due to everyday wear and tear.
By regularly examining the ring, you can catch any potential issues before they worsen and prevent the stone from falling out.
Examine for Loose Stones
During your regular checks, carefully examine the ring to see if any stones are loose. Gently tap the ring against a soft surface or shake it near your ear to listen for any rattling sounds. If you notice any movement or hear a noise, it is likely that one or more stones have become loose.
In such cases, it is important not to panic but to take immediate action to prevent further damage.
Repair Immediately if Needed
If you find that a stone is loose, it is crucial to address the issue promptly. Leaving a loose stone unattended can lead to its loss or further damage to the setting. Depending on the type of stone and setting, there are different repair options available.
For example, if you have a stone set in a bezel setting, a jeweler can tighten the metal around the stone to secure it. Alternatively, if you have a stone set in a channel setting, the jeweler may need to remove the stone and reset it properly.
It is important to consult with a professional jeweler who can assess the situation and provide the appropriate repairs.
Remember, regular maintenance and care are essential to keep your stone securely set in a ring without prongs. By examining for loose stones and repairing them immediately if needed, you can ensure the longevity and beauty of your jewelry.
Conclusion
A prongless ring requires thoughtful design and master craftsmanship to securely hold the stones. But with strategic setting types, durable gems, and structural reinforcements, jewelers can create stunning, snag-free rings.
Have an expert assess your gem and modify the band to keep your prongless jewelry safely sparkling.
